As we came in we were greeted by Grace and Robert Hammers, M/Y Hammerstime II. They also saw us off.
"We will be back in August... save us the slip
right next to yours." I said as we pulled out. We were headed for
Marathon, in the Florida keys. It would be five days of traveling at our
slow pace.
| In keeping with our new policy of trying new
routes and stopovers, we took the scenic route. It's inside the barrier
islands along the Intracoastal Waterway.
Our first day took us across Tampa Bay. We had a good view of the Sun Shine Bridge just as a tanker was about to pass under it. There are a lot of low bridges along the Florida Waterways. |
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Low is a relative term. If your sail boat needs
50 feet, almost all bridges in Florida are too low to get under.
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Remedy needs 22 feet with the dinghy
crane and/or the VHF antenna up. If the VHF antenna is lowered and the
crane taken down, the Anchor light is next highest and it needs 20 feet.
Unplug the Anchor light, and the Radar needs 19 feet.
Sometimes when I want to "show our colors", I erect the mast on the Sunfish sailboat which we carry on the top deck, and we fly our large Texas Flag. Then we need 24.5 feet of clearance.
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We went through 14 draw bridges on our day trip to Venice. Five were 25 foot clearance and absolutely no problem. Three bridges were 23-24 foot. Enough to clear, BUT so close that Marion would go below so she could not see how close we came. After we crossed Tampa Bay we encountered the 22 foot bridge at Cortez. We called and he said he operated on schedule and the next opening was 14 minutes away.
We decided to lower the antenna and take down
the crane. That would reduce our clearance to 20 feet and allow us to pass
without waiting. For good measure I took down the anchor light and brought
the height down to 19 Four of the bridges were 8- 18 feet and we would
have to wait for them.
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Later when we got to the 22 foot Ringling Causeway
at Sarasota we would just breeze on by.
The Waterway crosses Sarasota Bay with a lovely
view of the city.
There were lots of sailboats out. |
| After Sarasota the waterway narrows again and
there are spectacular homes all along the way.
This Mangrove Island was home to hundreds of nesting egrets. The area just south of Sarasota was the prettiest stretch of the waterway we have seen on the trip.
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Venice
We arrived mid afternoon. The free municipal dock was full, so we went to the Crow's Nest Marina right by the inlet. The dockage was $1.50 foot but they gave a 10% discount for cash. Short on cash and Tonic water, and needing exercise, we took the bikes into town to shop and get cash. While there we decided to go ahead and eat in town.
A local gentleman recommended La Luna Italian Restaurant... It was a winner. We shared a salad, a medium pizza (white cheese, spinach and garlic), and a carafe of Chianti. All for under $30 tip included. The pizza was too big for us, so we had it boxed for lunch the next day. Rating ***$$
We were very pleased that the Wireless modem worked in Venice. I had to switch from CDPD side B which Verizon uses on their towers to CDPD side A which Bell South uses. Got to catch up on the Email and did a download of the mutual funds database. It's great being connected.
York Island
Next morning we were off by 8:30 on a 58 mile trip to a Sanabel Island anchorage. There would be six bridges, three were 26 foot or over, and three were well under the 19 foot level we had stripped down to.
Our day took us past Boca Grande, where we had a chaotic anchoring experience tying to the mangroves a year before. It also took us past the Useppa Island anchorage, where we had enjoyed the tunnel of love and the beaches of Cayo Costa with Jack and Betsy Hardy on Antares.
The computer voice on NOAA weather warned us of a front coming our way with winds shifting to the North East during the night. We changed the planned anchorage from Pt Ybel on Sanabel Island to York Island on the North East side of the sound. It was a good choice and had excellent depth and holding.
Marco Island
By morning the NOAA voice announced small craft
warnings, winds NE 20 kts, seas 3 to 6 feet offshore BUT under 2 feet close
to the shore. We started by 8 AM and were offshore about 2 miles for the
first half an hour. As promised the seas settled down to a 2 foot
chop within about 3/4 mile from the shore.
We stayed in as close all the way past Naples
to Marco Island. We were anchored in Factory Bay BEFORE noon and had a
leisurely lunch.
We deployed the dinghy, went ashore at the Marco River Marina. I needed a proper grease gun and a supply of Miller Lite. First we had a spicy shrimp appetizer and brews at the harbor side bar. Then we walked to the NAPA auto parts store and the short mile to the Publix Supermarket for a few provisions. Marco Island is at the Southern end of Naples. It has some very upscale condominiums and homes. There is also some affordable housing. We were impressed with what we saw. Beyond Marco Island there is nothing but the Everglades and the Ten Thousand Islands coastline. Then the Keys.
We listened carefully to the weather forecast the next morning. It was two days before we planned to be in Marathon. The weather was not improving and not expected to improve for several days.
Marathon was 95 miles across open Gulf and Florida Bay. It would be a rough ten hours of crossing. The alternative was to hug the shoreline as best we could, and head for an anchorage 70 miles down the coast at Cape Sable. It was protected from the North East winds. This would be followed by a 35 mile day in potentially rough seas into Marathon.
"Let's go on," said Marion, "I'm anxious to see my sisters. They will be there Saturday."
I was convinced that we should not do the one day crossing. And I was reluctant to attempt the two day crossing for fear of a really bad turn of the weather on the second day.
" I think we need to make some progress. If it worsens, we could be stuck here a week."
"O.K. let's start out for Cape Sable," I offered, "If it's too rough, we will just come back here."
Flamingo
We started at 9:30; that's a late start if you have a long day of cruising ahead. The seas were relatively smooth as we went South along Marco Island.
I called ahead to the Marina at Flamingo in the Everglades National Park. It could be used as an alternative for the night. It was 12 miles past the planned anchorage.
"If you come, make sure you arrive at high tide around six this evening," said the harbormaster, "the entry channel is shallow... at low tide, only four feet."
Our course would take us ten miles off shore as we rounded Cape Romano Shoals. Then we would head into the shore line to get some protection. It was a welcome sight that there were three sailboats and another powerboat was about a mile ahead of us. At least we were not alone.
I got on the VHF radio and called, "This is Motor Yacht Remedy, Southbound out of Marco Island, Calling the powerboat ahead of me, going to Cape Romano Shoals."
After a while the powerboat came back, "This is a powerboat going south," there was surprise in his voice because he was not expecting company. We agreed to meet on 68.
"Where are you heading today?" I asked.
"Right now for the marker off the end of the shoals then going to Shark River for the night," he replied.
"I was just looking for company," I explained, "we are headed around the shoals and in by the coast for protection. We plan to anchor just by the beach at Middle Cape. Then go on to Marathon."
"We will be going to Marathon too, if the weather permits."
The name of his boat was Lazy Frog. We agreed to keep in touch as we cruised. We were both going about the same speed. Remedy had been hit with several large waves from about 60 degrees off the port bow. "The seas are pretty rough out here," I suggested, "How do you find it?"
"We are getting tossed about. But it's not too bad" he answered.
"My ships bell has rung about ten times already," I said. Then I went on to explain that I measure the misery of the crossing by how many times the waves cause the bell to ring.
It was about two hours before we got into smooth enough waters that we could move about easily on the boat. The rounding of Romano Shoals would go into our record books at 25 bells.
As we approached Shark River we said farewell to Lazy Frog and agreed to reestablish contact in the morning. Then as we approached the anchorage at Middle Cape, we decided that it would be cozier to be tied up in the Marina at Flamingo. It was only an hour and a half away and our arrival would be at high tide.
We made it in without bumping on the bottom. They had one slip with single 30 Amp service. It was adequate because, with the cool front, we did not need Air Conditioning. We were near the end of our water so it was great to fill up, take a long shower, and rinse the salt off the boat. After a ten hour day we slept well.
Marathon
Marion was up first and went up by the office to get the newspaper.
She also had news, "The harbormaster said we need to leave on the 8AM high tide, or we won't be able to get out till later this evening."
I pulled up the tide charts for Flamingo. There was a minor high of 1 foot at 8AM and there would be another high of 2.5 feet around 7PM. We had arrived at the higher high the day before. We would leave with 1.5 feet less water. It could be close. There would be no leasurely morning newspaper, breakfast, and shower. It was time to get moving, and coffee underway.
A couple of places on the way our the depth meter
showed - - which means too shallow to measure. We stirred up the sandy
bottom, but never hit. About 30 minutes later we were in 7 feet of water.
| "Poof," and a little while later, "Poof, Poof."
It is the blowing noise the porpoises make as they surface. We were being greeted by a large contingent of dolphins chasing the boat and leaping in our wake. There must have been close to a dozen. I rushed below and got Marion's regular "non digital" camera. |
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They followed in our wake for about 20 minutes.
"Lazy Frog, Lazy Frog, this is Remedy," I called.
He came back, loud and clear, and we went to 68.
We exchanged tales about our overnight locations and determined we were both headed for the same marker above Moser Channel. They were about 5 or 6 miles behind.
We were in port and tied up seccurely before noon.
Our location for the month of May is at Sombrero Dockside Lounge and Marina.
It is close to the main shopping area and a large Publix Supermarket.
No sooner that tied up we were greeted by Ron
and Beverly Arbizzani on Farfetched. We had met them first
at Punta Gorda and played tennis with them in January of 2000. Later we
met up on the Great Loop Cruise as we were going down the Mississippi in
September. At Mobile we split not really expecting to see them again.
There are at least a half a dozen marina's in
Marathon so we were delighted when a green hulled Nordic Tug 37 pulled
in four slips away. It was Tim and Pat Lanzer on Lazy Frog.
We were both surprised because we had not discussed marinas.
| By mid afternoon we heard from Marions sisters
Ginny and Linda and their husbands Tom and Roy.
"Wear your tackiest tourist outfits when you come," Marion advised them. "There is a party tonight at the bar... the Tacky Tourist Party. There will be prizes and Barbeque for dinner." I brought a bunch of my Mardi Gras beads and passed
out several strands to ladies at the party.
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"My dear, you seem under dressed for this grand gala," I said as I offered each a strand of beads. None of the ladies turned down the offer of beads.
Would you believe, there was someone tackier than me at the party?
It was a good first day. Marathon promises to
be the start of a long, long party.