Ed and Marion Herndon
on Great Ketch
This was our first cruise following retirement. We added an Autohelm 6000+ autopilot and a binnacle mounted VHF prior to the trip. This shakedown cruise to Offats included Dan and Karen Wyatt to orient them for their cruise leader job the following weekend.
The trip down revealed that the anchor light, the masthead Tricolor and the forward bilge pump didn't work,
During the trip back the alternator belt failed while we were motorsailing in the ICW. We were watching a large thunderstorm over Texas City and it was moving to the north east We managed to sail through Pelican Cut and passed the Texas City dike on a light NW breeze.. The storm passed about two miles to the north of us. We sailed on out of the traffic into East bay to accomplish the repairs.
The repair was accomplished in three distinct phases separated by beer breaks lasting at least a half hour. The job was completed before we reentered the Houston Ship Channel at the Redfish High Range.
By this time the winds had picked up to 15 Kts from SSE. We gave the helm to Dan Wyatt and told him not to exceed 15 degrees heel. Ed trimmed sails and Marion served refreshments. We AVERAGED 7 Kts to the Seabrook Marker 2 and indicated 8.1 Kts briefly.
The next three days we spent provisioning and doing repairs, Cameron restiched the Bimini and dodger and replaced four worn zippers. Marion provisioned for 10 days, Ed stocked the liquor cabinet. The boat now has a pronounced list to port of 2 degrees.
We pulled out at about 10 AM. We are headed on a planned one month amble down the Texas Coast so why rush things? We are traveling with our two cats Beauregard and Belle. We are a little apprehensive about how they will adapt.
We checked in with the Cruise leader to tell him we were on the way. We made it half way to marker 16 and Marion said," We forgot to bring the Cat Carrier."
Well, who knows we might just need it. I tapped my pocket instinctively looking for the keys to the house. The keys were there. I had promised to leave them for my daughter Jeanne so she could use the house while we were gone. "Yes, Honey we better go back, I forgot to leave the keys for Jeanne."
About twenty minutes later we finally got away with the Cat Carrier and less the keys.
The fleet was already at Redfish when we made Marker #2. There was almost no wind so we continued under motor with full sail up. As we reached the Houston ship Channel Marion reported, " there is water in the hall way by the engine room".
I dismissed it with, "It's probably from yesterdays clean up."
Later she said, " There's water all over the engine room and when you open the door I sprays you".
Sure enough she was right. My alternator belt repair had created a hole in the water pump hose. Three wraps of duct tape and a spare clamp fixed that little problem and we were motoring again.
Out ETA remained around 5 PM for the TMCA party at the Landings. We trimmed sail on the improving wind from the SW and headed for Texas City Dike. The wind Did us a favor and we actually cut the engine and were moving nicely at 6 kts in the ICW between Pelican Island an the Galveston Causeway.
Around 4 PM Josh Wallach called, "Great Ketch, what's you estimated arrival time?"
I was using the new Autopilot and picked up the new VHF in the cockpit and somewhat confidently replied, "GPS predicts a 5:07 ETA. Don't hold the party for us."
These words were hardly spoken when we started bumping bottom. With full sails driving us at 6 Kts we were soon hard aground. Engine full on and hardened sails to increase heel only drove us harder aground.
Over the next few hour we were assisted by several boats.
First a valiant 20 foot sport fisherman powered by a 200 horse Evinrude tried, they almost freed us,
Next a twin screw forty foot yacht named Sea Fantasy, assisted by a small sport fisherman to ferry lines, the gave us a tow. On the first attempt the tow line parted. The second attempt was aborted when the Sea Fantasy was in danger of going aground herself. We too were experiencing a troubling knock in the drive shaft.
We called the Coast Guard and they put us in touch with TowBoat US. Their fee would be $125 per hour. It would include the cost for about 5 hours for them to reach us from Clear Lake. I said "Forget it." and decided to use the dinghy to ferry the anchor out to deep water, and kedge off.
I was doing that when yet another small sport fisherman offered to take the anchor out for me. Within minutes of my decision to kedge the anchor was in place and kedging with the #48 Lewmar was moving us toward deeper water.
The next assist came when "John Boy" arrived on the scene. The captain of "John Boy" said, "We have been listening to your problems and came to help."
One look at "John Boy" and the obviously experienced crew made me confident that we were about to be saved. "John Boy" is a small, powerful and highly maneuverable tow. It looks like the ones used in dredge tender operations. All engine and propeller, sheer muscle with 6 inch diameter cleats and 3 inch diameter hausers.
The first try used the anchor rode that was out for kedging. That try was aborted because of the potential strain on the anchor windlass. For the second pull I rigged 1 inch Nylon through the bow chock to the port side Lewmar wench. That pull was successful and we proceeded slowly to Offats Bayou. The drive shaft noise disappeared.
We arrived about 7:30 PM to a warm reception from concerned TMCAers. Sam and Charlotte had come especially to have us out to dinner and see us off on our trip. We had a wonderful dinner at Yamoto Japanese Steak House and made plans to meet Sam and Charlotte in Freeport on the 29th.
At 2 AM the shore power gave out and we started the Generator for AC. At 9 AM we moved to the adjacent piers power outlet. That worked for a while. Around 10 AM Marion diagnosed Beauregard to be having a urinary problem. We took him to the Veterinary Clinic on 61st St and got immediate attention.
By afternoon everything seemed settled. We needed to stay close to the Vet for 48 Hours and so we went into vacation mode.
We bicycled toward the Seawall and along the way found the Marble Slab Ice Cream Parlor. My first time, but Marion knew the ropes. I got the Coconut Ice Cream in a waffle cone dipped in chocolate and sprinkled with almond chips and coconut flakes. Just writing it down brings back the flavors.
We rode down the Seawall a few miles and then returned to the boat exploring the back streets along the way.
The newest feature at Moody Gardens is the Imax film ride and the Discovery Museum.
We did the Museum first. Its mostly Space Exploration materials with a lot of neat hands-on exhibits. There is a life sized holographic display of actors portraying famous scientists explaining their works... They seem suspended in air a few feet away, much like the effects in a 3D Film, but there are no polarized lenses to wear. I wish I understood the phenomenon.
The IMax Film Ride was a real sensation. You are buckled into a seat in a small theater (18 seats). The floor of the theater is mounted on very powerful hydraulic rams which can pitch, roll and translate to create sensations of motion. When these are coupled with the computer generated IMax visuals you experience very convincing sensations of flying through space in hot pursuit of the evil alien spacecraft. Real Buck Rogers stuff. It's really a marvelous adaptation of the Spacecraft Simulators developed over the past 30 years by NASA and the Aircraft Simulators used by the Air Force and the Commercial airlines to train their pilots.
Had the $7.95 lunch buffet at the Garden Restaurant then to work it off we bicycled around the grounds and then back to the Landings for a swim and a nap. We really love having the bikes for transportation and exercise.
Got underway at 8 AM on our short trip to Freeport. With the wind at 8 Kts from about 290 degrees we were able to sail almost half the way. Around Noon the wind moved to 210 ... right on the nose.
Along the way we used the autopilot almost continually. The new VHF in the cockpit was a much more convenient than running up and down to the salon VHF to talk with each passing tow. These are two of the most used pieces of equipment on the trip. I don't know how we did it without them.
We arrived at Bridge Harbor Marina around 3 PM and took on 50 gallons of fuel in the 60 gallon main tank. Thats calling it too close.
Sam and Charlotte arrived around 5 PM as planned and we partied dockside with Cook's Brut before heading to the Red Snapper restaraunt for dinner. Charlotte insisted that we take their cell phone with us so we could keep in touch while at sea, I was reluctant but Marion was happy and relieved to have the additional Communications capability.
Charlotte's ankle, broken only two weeks ago in Mexico, is on the mend. She is expecting to move up to a walking caste in a week or two. If she is well enough when we return at the end of the month, we will take her and Sam sailing.
As always its great to visit and share stories with them.
Before first light we were up and on the go. Destination Port O'Connor Offshore route.
The new AutoHelm went into "Code Lock" and all attempts to out smart the security feature were in vain. Using Charlotte's Cell phone I was able to contact the dealer and order a replacement control head to be shipped to us at Port Aransas..
Meanwhile Marion is at the helm on a horrific starboard beat. The seas are rolling in from 210 and with a wind out of 270 that's exactly where the beat wants to go. The course to Port O'Connor is also about 210. We were bouncing like a hobby horse, the cats got sick and I was munching Ginger Snaps to get rid of the Green Feeling.
We took about three hours of this punishment and decided it was not fun. Furthermore, at the current rate of progress we would arrive at the POC jetties well after dark. We turned back and with the wind and sea now cooperating had a very enjoyable sail back to Freeport.
The plan changed to a day or two at the San Bernard River. On the way the weather got worse and worse so we were very happy with the decision to come into the ICW.
A dredging operation was underway at the Brazos Floodgates and we could hear that all of the barge traffic was halted until midnight. We heard from one of the several parked tows that the holdup only applied to the tow traffic. Smaller boats were allowed to pass. That was good news: so we called the floodgates and were cleared to pass.
We arrived at the river around 5 PM and set anchors fore-n-aft. The current was about 2 kts and it drove us next to the shore. I used the dinghy to go ashore and went down to the seaside to check out the beach. The river entrance to the Gulf seems to have wandered west about a half a mile in the past two years. Returned and watched thousands of bird heading southwest around sunset. We are here alone. It is very peaceful.
Took the dinghy down river about half a mile and crossed the sand dunes to the beach. We did all the conventional beach stuff.. swimming, walking the beach. Marion brought her Crosswords and I did a triple spired sand castle with a lake and a valley of small trees. Alas, we forgot to bring the camera.
Back at the boat we did some fixup stuff in the cockpit where it was cool and shady. Even got the speaker to working again and found a blown fuse that kept the cigarette lighter from working. Charlotte's cell phone blows this fuse.
Had a pork roast on the grill.. Even low heat is too hot for cooking a roast.
Checked the Racor for water and sludge. We had 20 hours of engine since fillup and 24 hours of generator usage. The Racor yielded about 1/3 to 1/2 cups of water.
Departure at 8 AM and Motorsailed all the way to Matagorda. Arrived at 2:30 PM and shortly after getting moored a thunderstorm rolled through.
Around 5 we bicycled into town and did all of the spots in the tour guide (5). Selected the SeaBreeze restaraunt for dinner and arranged for someone to come pick us up at the boat.
The owner picked us up at 7:30. The restaraunt was almost full with locals out for Friday night seafood dinner. I had the Blackened Red Snapper and Marion ordered the Seafood Platter. The food was superb.. better than anything on the Kemah waterfront. On the way back we told the owner how much we enjoyed her restaraunt and she told us about another they have had in the Woodlands for 30 years. Her partner, Jim Panero, is moving to Kemah and has recently bought a large sailboat. I promised to look him up and get him recruited into TMCA.
Well almost all sail. We did have to motor through the Matagorda swing bridge and the Colorado river locks. The wind was out of the North East about 8 kts as we left Matagorda. That gave us a wing-on-wing westward in the ICW. When we reached Matagorda bay the wind shifted around to the South East at about 10 kts.
We were greeted by about a dozen dolphin as we entered the bay. They followed along and entertained us with their surprise puffing as the surfaced alongside the boat. First on one side and then on the other. Like Hide and Seek they would pass under the boat then back.
With all sails up we made about 5.5 kts on a broad port reach. About half way across the Bay we heard a boat calling "TarHeel, this is Southern Exposure". Then the reply, "This is TarHeel.. 73."
It was not a familiar voice to me.
I couldn't believe my ears; either my VHF was dropping "s" sounds or TarHeels was in radio range, I chimed in "TarHeels, TarHeels, this is Great Ketch. Are you a pleasure craft owned by Bill Eubanks?"
Well yes he was. And furthermore, we were both heading for the same Marina for the night. You know the rest... Cocktails on Tarheels followed by dinner at another of the finest Seafood restaurants on the Texas Gulf coast. This one is Clark's. Its located right on the ICW and is an open air place with a fabulous view and a good breeze. The special was Red Snapper cooked you choice of 3 ways. Then it turned out that they ran out of Red Snapper. Next everyone was told they would be substituting Snook.
"Snook, did you say Snook?"
"What's a Snook?" and so on.
The owner came and apologized for the shortage and assured us we would find Snook a very delectable fish. Snook , he explained, is somewhat a rarity. It is imported from either Mexico or Florida. The Texas Snook was wiped out by DDT back in the 60's. Did you know that Snook have a somewhat long nose and that they appear to be smiling? Did you know that it takes a special net to catch a Snook because the Snook snout snips ordinary nets? Well after that explanation everyone was ready for Snook. Even we who ordered the special shrimp and fish over angel hair pasta were assured that the unnamed fish was really Snook. Bill Eubanks being somewhat a purist declined the Snook substitution and selected the Shrimp combination. Everyone ate too much, but one only passes through Port O'Connor a few times in life.
Sunday morning is quiet in POC. We waited for the 10 AM thunderstorm to pass, wished TarHeels and Southern Exposure a safe journey, and then took off on bicycles for a shopping spree.
Alvin's grocery sells almost everything. I decided that since we are off to the Army Hole, I better have a fishing rig. I haven't fished since 1963 in Myrtle Beach Carolina. That summer was a bummer for fishing. Out in the surf, stalking the illusive Spot... everyone is catching them but me. Finally on September 6 1993 i caught a keeper. Every thing was packed for my transfer to Germany... No way to cook the fish... I gave it away.
I'm hoping things will change. Today I bought a $40 Special Deal rod and reel, a package of swivels and two lures. The lady who helped me with the selections told me to be sure and tie them on securely. I should expect to catch my limit on Redfish in three hours at Army Hole. We toured the town on our bicycles and departed for Army Hole at 3 PM.
Had a great sail on Espiritu Santo Bay and made it to Matagorda Island State Park by 6 PM. There was only one other person on the island. Jean was in her sailboat with her dog. She welcomed us and helped with our lines. Once we got settled she brought us homemade Seafood Gumbo. She had been camping out for over a week and we seem to be the first company she had seen. She and her husband had been offshore diving. They ran into the same bad weather we had experienced out of Freeport and retreated to Army Hole. He had to return to work, but she is taking a week off.
Marion and I took off bicycling and found many jackrabbits. They were pacing us down the back roads. We also saw two deer, one snake-in-the-road, and a horned toad.
At the beach; egg salad sandwiches rolled in tortillas, cold beer and a butterscotch for desert We found lotsa sand dollars. Had the whole beach to ourselves.
I built a big single spire sand castle. It was taller than Marion. See photo. I carved E + M in the picnic table. Then we biked on back to the boat in the heat of the day. It was in the 90's and not much wind.
Came back and the cats were sulking. They are off their food, but seem otherwise healthy.
Marion took a nap. I got Jean Loedeman to check me out on my new fishing gear. On about the third cast I snarled the lure in some concrete rip-rap that was placed along the bulkhead. I was not about to part with my new golden spoon lure with the hot pink hula skirt hiding the treble hook. I clamberd about on the rip-rap and managed to skuff my heel on the rough concrete. I did recover the lure.
One of the park workers watched this action and asked, "How's it going?"
"Not too good. I'm just trying this out after 34 years of no fishing".
Then he pointed to a shallow marshy area, "Try along that bank, wade out, and cast for the middle of the channel", he said, " Seen a lot of big ones taken there."
I moved over and on my third cast caught a too small redfish. Next cast I snagged about $5 worth of tackle. I hauled it in and salvaged it for my somewhat modest tackle collection.
That evening we had dinner on our boat and invited Jean over. We celebrated by running the AC and polishing off all of the wine she brought to share.
Just before dark we anchored out to avoid the racoons and have a start on the next days trip. Belle managed to escape out the aft companionway at 2 AM.
Its about 45 miles from Army Hole to Rockport. We had a beat across Espiritu Santo bay to the ICW (8 AM to 9:30AM). Then were teased into sailing attempts for most of the mid day. (translation sails up but motor needed to make way.)
Finally around 3 PM we entered Aransas Bay. We were greeted by dozens of dolphins as we entered the bay. It was like they were charging right for us.
Next we had a 6 Kt close reach all the way to the marker "49" turn into Rockport. Finally no motor. We enter the harbor at 6 PM. I'm so proud of Marion's helmsmanship.... with 15 kts crosswind she brought Great Ketch into a strange slip like she was pulling into home. She never touched a piling and I stepped off the boat, spring line in hand to secure the bow.
None of that, "What the hell are you doing Marion?" kind of landing.
We went to the H.E.B. and the Liquor store to reprovision the minimum essentials. Then we bought a take out Waterfront Pizza, ate it and crashed.
Good news, the cats have started to eat. They are acting more normal. Beau has discovered that he can push the companionway door open. Now we have to lock them in securely. At 2 AM they were working the latch.
Went to the Laundromat and the Hair Parlor. I got a pony tail.
We met and had dinner with Larry and Jean Whipple. They are returning from a 2 1/2 year cruise of the east coast and the carribean. Their home port is Corpus Christi.
Motorsailed toPort A.
Terrible docking experience
Moved to new dock.
News from Jeanne not good.
Daddy in hospital
Had Dinner and crashed